Tangalle: The South Coast Before It Disappears

Tangalle sits at the far eastern end of the developed south coast and it still has something that Mirissa and Unawatuna have largely lost: space. The beaches here are long and wide and backed by casuarina trees rather than sun lounger rows. The town itself is a working fishing port first and a tourist destination second, and the balance remains roughly in that order.

Rekawa Beach is the turtle nesting site just east of town. Between May and September, green turtles come ashore at night to lay their eggs and the local conservation project allows small groups of visitors to watch under the supervision of guides who know exactly which nests to approach and how close is close enough. Sitting on a dark beach at 2am watching a sea turtle move back into the water after nesting is one of those experiences that alters your sense of what the island contains.

The lagoon behind Tangalle town is beautiful in the late afternoon when the light hits the water and the fishing boats are coming in. Walk along the lagoon edge towards the old rest house, which sits on a promontory between the sea and the lagoon with views in both directions. Even if you are not staying there, the promontory itself is worth the walk.

The seafood here is exceptional and cheaper than anywhere on the west coast. Find the restaurants along the Goyambokka beach road that display their catch fresh in the morning. Point at what you want. Come back in the evening when it has been marinated and grilled and sit outside with the sound of the sea behind you. This is the south coast at its most honest.